When your car goes in for collision repair, the shop will use one of three types of parts: OEM, aftermarket, or recycled. The difference matters more on some parts than others. Here’s what to know so you can ask the right questions.
The three categories
OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer): Parts made by the vehicle’s manufacturer or their approved supplier. Same specs as what came on the car new.
Aftermarket: Parts made by third-party manufacturers to fit the same vehicle. Quality varies widely — from excellent CAPA-certified parts to cheap imports.
Recycled / LKQ (Like Kind and Quality): Used OEM parts salvaged from wrecked vehicles of the same make and model. Real OEM parts, just previously installed on another vehicle.
When OEM matters most
For these parts, OEM is worth insisting on:
- Structural components — frame rails, crumple zones, reinforcements
- Safety systems — airbag modules, seatbelt pretensioners
- ADAS-integrated parts — bumper covers with mounting points for sensors, windshields with camera brackets
- Radiator support and inner structure — these affect crash performance
- Any part on a vehicle still under manufacturer warranty
For these, aftermarket is often fine:
- Non-structural cosmetic panels — outer fenders, hoods on older vehicles
- Trim pieces, mouldings, emblems
- Some grille components
- Wheel arches
Recycled OEM is a good middle ground when it’s available and inspected.
Why manufacturer position statements matter
Almost every major auto manufacturer publishes position statements that spell out exactly which parts should be used in what circumstances. Some manufacturers are firm — for example, they specify OEM windshields for vehicles with lane-keeping cameras, because the aftermarket glass may not have the correct optical characteristics.
Ignoring a manufacturer’s position statement can:
- Void the manufacturer warranty on that part
- Compromise ADAS function
- Create liability if the part fails in a subsequent collision
A quality shop looks up the position statement for your vehicle before the repair. Don’t hesitate to ask.
The insurance side
Most insurance policies allow the insurer to specify parts type. Common defaults:
- New vehicles (0-3 years): Usually OEM by default
- Older vehicles (3-7 years): Often OEM optional, aftermarket standard
- Vehicles 7+ years old: Often aftermarket by default, OEM available at extra cost
If OEM matters to you, you often have options:
- Pay the difference — many insurers allow you to pay the OEM upgrade
- Have a policy add-on — some insurers offer “OEM parts endorsement”
- Advocate through the shop — a good shop can push for OEM when it’s warranted by the position statement
Questions to ask about your repair
- “Which parts on this estimate are OEM, aftermarket, or recycled?”
- “Are there any parts where the manufacturer requires OEM?”
- “What’s the OEM upgrade cost if I want to pay the difference?”
- “How do you decide when to use recycled?”
A good shop answers these questions clearly. If the answers are vague, that’s a signal to ask more or get a second opinion.
What about used parts?
Used OEM parts (from recycled vehicles) can be an excellent option — they’re the same original part, often at 40-60% of the cost of new OEM. Reputable shops inspect them thoroughly before use.
Two things to check:
- Where did the part come from? Reputable salvage networks vs. random online sources
- Was the part on a repaired vehicle? A quarter panel from a rear-ended sedan is fine; the same panel from a front-hit vehicle probably isn’t
The bottom line
OEM matters most on safety-critical and ADAS-integrated parts. On cosmetic pieces, quality aftermarket is often fine and saves money. The right answer for your specific vehicle depends on the manufacturer position statement, your insurance policy, and your priorities.
Verify parts choices with your shop before authorizing the repair.